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Pseudofolliculitis Barbae

BASICS

  • Description: Foreign body inflammatory reaction from ingrown hairs causing papules/pustules, mainly in the bearded area but also scalp, axilla, or pubic areas if shaved. Mechanical process: extrafollicular/transfollicular hair penetration.
  • Other Names: Chronic sycosis barbae, pili incarnati, folliculitis barbae traumatica, razor bumps, shaving bumps, tinea barbae.
  • System affected: Skin/exocrine

EPIDEMIOLOGY

  • Age: Postpubertal/middle age (14–25 years typical)
  • Sex: Male > female, but can affect any gender with waxing/shaving
  • Prevalence: Common in Fitzpatrick IV–VI (darker skin); 45–83% of African American soldiers who shave

ETIOLOGY & PATHOPHYSIOLOGY

  • Pathogenesis: Shaving too close causes curly hair to re-enter the skin, creating foreign body reaction → papules/pustules.
  • Contributing Factors: Plucking, tweezing, waxing, abnormal hair growth in injured follicles, curly hair, genetic polymorphisms in hair keratin.
  • Transfollicular Escape: Hair escapes the follicle into dermis → severe inflammation, possible abscess, foreign body granuloma.

RISK FACTORS

  • Curly hair
  • Close/multiple razor strokes
  • Plucking/tweezing
  • Fitzpatrick IV–VI skin (African, Mediterranean, Middle Eastern, Asian descent)

GENERAL PREVENTION

  • Hydrate hairs with warm water before shaving
  • Use adjustable clippers/razors (avoid close shaves)
  • Prefer single-edge, foil-guarded, or "O-head" electric razors
  • Shave in the direction of hair growth
  • Do not overstretch skin
  • Use adequate shaving gel/cream
  • Clean razor frequently
  • Daily shaving can reduce papules/pruritus
  • Regular use of depilatories (test for sensitivity first)

COMMONLY ASSOCIATED CONDITIONS

  • Keloidal folliculitis
  • Pseudofolliculitis nuchae

DIAGNOSIS

History

  • Pain or pruritus after shaving
  • “Razor bumps”

Physical Exam

  • Tender, erythematous follicular papules/pustules (2–4 mm) in beard area (can affect scalp, axilla, pubic)
  • Hyperpigmented bumps, possible alopecia
  • Lusterless, brittle hair

Differential Diagnosis

  • Bacterial folliculitis, impetigo, acne vulgaris, tinea barbae, sarcoidal papules

Diagnostic Tests

  • Clinical diagnosis
  • Pustule cultures: usually sterile (may show skin flora)
  • Consider hormonal workup in hirsute females

TREATMENT

General Measures

  • Stop or avoid close shaving for 30 days (keep beard groomed)
  • Dislodge embedded hair with sterile needle/tweezers
  • Massage area with washcloth/soft brush several times daily
  • Hydrocortisone 1–2.5% cream for inflammation
  • Selenium sulfide if seborrhea present

First Line (Mild)

  • 5% benzoyl peroxide after shaving
  • 1% hydrocortisone at bedtime
  • Tretinoin 0.025% cream, daily

Moderate Cases

  • Chemical depilatories (barium sulfide, calcium thioglycolate)—test on forearm before use
  • Eflornithine HCl (Vaniqa) cream to reduce hair growth/stiffness

Severe/Refractory Cases

  • Laser therapy (long-pulsed Nd:YAG preferred for dark skin)
  • Avoid shaving; grow beard

Topical/Systemic Antibiotics (if infection)

  • Topical clindamycin or erythromycin BID
  • Oral erythromycin or tetracycline for severe inflammation
  • Benzoyl peroxide 5%-clindamycin 1% gel BID

Precautions

  • Tretinoin, tetracycline, benzoyl peroxide: Avoid in pregnancy
  • Chemical depilatories: Skin sensitivity, risk of chemical burns
  • Hydrocortisone: Use short term to avoid skin atrophy

Second Line

  • Chemical peels (glycolic/salicylic acid)

ISSUES FOR REFERRAL

  • Dermatology for severe, scarring, or refractory cases (4–6 weeks of unsuccessful therapy)
  • Occupational or cosmetic requirements

SURGERY/PROCEDURES

  • Laser hair removal (long-pulsed Nd:YAG)

ONGOING CARE & MONITORING

  • Educate on preventive strategies
  • Monitor for scarring, pigmentation changes, secondary infection

DIET

  • No restrictions

PATIENT EDUCATION


PROGNOSIS

  • Good with proper management and prevention
  • Poor if progressive scarring/granuloma

COMPLICATIONS

  • Scarring, keloids
  • Granuloma formation
  • Postinflammatory hyperpigmentation
  • Impetiginization
  • Epidermal/pigmentary changes with laser

ICD-10 Codes

  • L73.1 Pseudofolliculitis barbae
  • B35.0 Tinea barbae and tinea capitis
  • L73.8 Other specified follicular disorders

CLINICAL PEARLS

  • Do not use electrolysis—expensive, painful, ineffective.
  • Laser + eflornithine > laser alone.
  • Sulfur smell may limit use of some depilatories.
  • Test depilatories on small skin area before use.